Pearls are usually associated with classic jewellery. Chaumet is giving them a different role in its latest Joséphine Soir de Fête parure, where they take centre stage alongside diamonds and updated floral motifs.
Unveiled in April, the new parure comprises a necklace, brooch, earrings and ring. The necklace features 15 South Sea cultured pearls, while the other pieces retain the same combination of pearl and diamond.
The focus on pearls is tied to Joséphine Bonaparte, whose fondness for the gems is part of the history behind the Joséphine collection. It also draws on Chaumet’s long-standing expertise in working with pearls.
The design has a direct link to the house’s archives. Its floral motifs are based on the Bourbon-Parma tiara, created in 1919 for the wedding of Hedwige de La Rochefoucauld-Doudeauville and Prince Sixtus of Bourbon-Parma. For the new parure, Chaumet has reworked the original floral forms rather than reproducing them.
The pieces also include trompe-l’œil details inspired by the pear cut, a recurring element of the Joséphine collection and a shape associated with the empress.
Behind the design is the work of Chaumet’s workshops at 12 Vendôme. Artisans use the fil couteau technique to reduce the amount of visible metal around the stones. The approach makes the diamonds and pearls appear less constrained by their settings and keeps the pieces visually light.
That construction is particularly relevant to a full parure. With several large pieces worn together, the setting can determine whether the jewellery feels heavy or balanced.
Joséphine Soir de Fête is less about recreating a historical piece than adapting elements of Chaumet’s archive for contemporary evening jewellery. The pearl remains the defining feature, while the floral motifs and setting techniques connect the new pieces to the house’s past.
