Van Cleef & Arpels has expanded its Perlée collection with six new stacking rings, introducing updated versions of one of its most recognisable design codes, as reported by Tatler Asia.
The focus stays on the maison’s signature golden bead motif, but the new pieces are clearly designed with layering in mind, combining diamonds and coloured gemstones in a more flexible, stackable format.
Perlée has been part of the brand’s line-up since 2008, built around the idea of the golden bead as a central design element. The motif itself goes further back in the archives, linked to Van Cleef & Arpels’ late-1940s “Couscous” creations. This latest update continues that progression, refining the structure once again. Instead of the five-row format introduced in 2022, the new rings feature three rows of beads that gradually increase in size from the top of the ring towards the back of the band.
The collection is split into two directions. Three of the rings feature a diagonal line of nine round diamonds, graded D to F in colour and IF to VVS in clarity. These are set in a nail-style design with rounded tips, which allows the stones to sit within the beaded structure rather than stand apart from it.
The remaining three designs sit under the Perlée Couleurs line and replace diamonds with coloured gemstones. Sapphires are set in yellow gold, rubies in rose gold, and emeralds again in yellow gold. Each setting can hold up to three stones, and the work is carried out by high jewellery stone setters, a detail reflected in the precision of the placement and the clean integration of colour into the bead pattern.
Craftsmanship remains a key part of the collection. The beads are cast in yellow, rose or white gold using Van Cleef & Arpels’ lost-wax technique and finished by hand to ensure consistency and smoothness.
On the reverse, each ring features a honeycomb-style openwork structure, adding detail and reducing weight while remaining largely hidden when worn. All six rings are designed to work with the wider Perlée collection. They can be worn alone, but the intention is clearly stacking, either within the new range or alongside existing pieces.
The result is a collection that focuses less on individual statement rings and more on combinations, allowing different metals, stones and textures to be layered together.
