Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first haute couture collection for Balenciaga took a different approach from the house’s recent runway presentations. Instead of focusing on elaborate staging, the designer placed attention on the clothes, construction and craftsmanship behind each piece.
The Autumn-Winter 2026-2027 couture collection was presented at the Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, where models walked through the outdoor gardens in 52 looks that explored volume, colour and movement.
The opening look featured a white silk T-shirt, loose beige trousers and an oversized orange balloon cape decorated with satin feathers. Other designs included sculpted coats, flowing gowns and feather-covered pieces that changed in appearance as the models moved.
Gigi Hadid drew attention in one of the collection’s most recognisable looks, wearing a black feather headpiece paired with wide trousers and blue heels. The outfit reflected Piccioli’s focus on creating dramatic shapes while keeping movement central to the design.
The collection also highlighted the work of Balenciaga’s couture ateliers. The team used traditional techniques such as embroidery, featherwork and metalwork, alongside newer methods including 3D body scanning and bio-engineered silk.
Piccioli’s approach focused on shaping garments through cutting and fabric rather than relying on internal structures. Several pieces were designed without corsets or additional support, allowing the materials to create the silhouette.
The presentation also represented a change in direction for Balenciaga. Compared with previous seasons, where show concepts often played a major role, Piccioli’s debut kept the focus on the garments and the skills of the atelier.
The show ended with Balenciaga’s atelier teams joining Piccioli on the runway, receiving a standing ovation from guests. The moment highlighted the role of craftsmanship behind the collection and the people involved in bringing the designs to life.
With his first couture collection for Balenciaga, Piccioli has set out his approach for the house: using its technical heritage while developing new forms for a contemporary audience.
